So, here’s how I did the piggy legs:
Here’s the little guy. I think he looks like a cross between the sample photo in the book and your little piggy (whom I thought was very cute). Did they put the ears on the other way in the sample pics? I followed the ear diagrams in the instructions but I think I need to reexamine ear placement on my next piggy.
Here’s the underside. Disregard the tuck on the leg nearest the top of the page. That’s just bad sewin’ on my part. See how smooth the joints are between the legs and tummy gusset? Here’s how:
- Match the leg to the appropriate notch in the gusset. Here are the two pieces, both right side up.
- Flip the gusset piece wrong side up, on top of the leg.
- You’re not matching them up exactly. It’s kind of a crisscross, with the center of the X at the seamline.* See the detail below.
- Since the edge of the leg piece is relatively straight, you’ll be pulling down the curvy seam of the gusset to match the straighter leg piece as you sew. This pic shows that process OUTSIDE of the sewing machine for easier visibility.
- Here is the same process of pulling down and to the left, with the pieces in the sewing machine. I backtacked at the beginning and end of the seam.
See how, at the end of the seam, it should be the same “X” as at the beginning of the seam?
- So now the leg stands up by itself.
- I kind of like this construction better than a one-piece legs-and-belly gusset because I’m not so great at sewing darts.
- Clip the seam close to the stitching line.
- Finger-press the seam open.
- Voila! Smooooooth piggy leggy.
*I figured out that for the actual-sized patterns in the book, the seam is about 3/16″, or 1.5 eighths (since my machine bed is marked in 1/8″ increments, it’s easier for me to think that way). So if you enlarged the pattern to double the size, you’d just need a 3/8″ seam. That size’d probably be better for my nerves, as turning that tiny sucker right-side out was pretty stressful for both me AND the piggy!!